Friday, December 23, 2011

Clean Lines and Blurry Photos

The Falls

There is a Tri State Creek that  has been on my radar for some time.  It's one of those places you go when everything is BLOWN OUT.   Those Days Don't happen to often.  anyway this December has been really good to kayakers in the South.   So with our abundance of rain myself and Chris McCoy decided to go check it out.  The highlight of the run is definitely the 40ft falls. It has a tricky entrance and only seen a few decents. None of them have been sucessful.  From what I heard the most people over compensate for the big hole at the lip and end up shooting out past the falls and landing on their head.   I decided to deal with the hole and melt the drop.  Chancing a surf at the lip of a big drop is a small price to pay, to clean the line.  Just as I expected the hole slowed me down allowing me to melt the drop. Melting the drop doesn't make for good photo's, but clean lines and not swimming is what really counts.  Right??  Anyway I melted the drop tucked it up and had a great line. Tri State Creek  will be my destination on those Blown Out Days on the Ridge.   It's also a good place to train for bigger drops.


Matt Wallace melting the falls.  You can barely see the shadow of the Boat about half way down. Black Ops, you never see it coming.

Chris McCoy tucking up on the big 'en

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Wyoming: It's not an adventure until something goes wrong.

“Real adventure is defined best as a journey from which you may not come back alive, and certainly not as the same person.”  - Yvon Chouinard

Dusk at Camp One

It is often forgotten the dangers and exposures we subject ourselves to in kayaking, especially that of expedition kayaking.  Most of the time, expeditions go off without a hitch, but in the blink of an eye things can go drastically wrong.   And it is often those misadventures that we find out what we are made of. Like they say it's not truly an adventure until something goes wrong.


Twin Lakes So Close Yet Still So Far
NFLW

Wyoming was the learning experience of my life. The NFLW and The Box showed me what I was truly made of.   The NFLW was conceived as the warm up for The Box.  As we camped the night before the hike, my mind was focused on Wyoming Granite and the  solitude of being lost in the wilderness of the Wind River Range.   As we prepared for the hike at sunrise all went well.    We easily found the trail and made great time to the top of the pass.   That is where things began to unravel. Unable to locate the trail we decided to bush whack to Twin Lakes.   This bush  whacking and scrambling through boulder strode avalanche fields with a 100 pound kayaking began to test the toughness of the group.   Everyone stayed extremely positive though and when we had almost reached our brink we found the trail.   Upon finding the trail it was another 45 minutes of hiking and  we arrived at Twin Lakes.

Twin Lakes was awesome.  It is somewhat of a mountain paradise.  Completely isolated from the outside world,  two crystal clear lakes filled with untouched native trout,  Twin Lakes was the reward for our toil.    As part of the group fished, myself and Chris McCoy decided to hike up and scout the Raft Gorge.  What we found was very disappointing the water was Definitely high for the gorge and what rapids that were run able had wood in play.   But not letting it spoil our day we went back to camp and enjoyed a perfect evening in the wilderness amongst good friends. 
Good Morning View From Camp
Chris McCoy getting "justified" in the Mini Gorge

The next morning we loaded up and started downstream.  There were several grueling portages, but the whitewater was still fun.  We ran several large rapids.  I was boating very well in a good groove and enjoying life.   As the rapids eased, we were all riding high and sure we would probably complete the entire run in one day.   As we moved down stream we came to a fairly manky Class IV rapid.  Dalton bounced through, and hit a rock. There was a little discussion as to take it with a little more right angle as to lessen the blow from the rock.   As I approached the rapid, as I came in  I was exactly where I wanted to be.  Little did we know though there was a large tree pinned a few feet underwater making a  sieve between it and the wall.   The blow from the rock deflected my bow down where it was immediately suck into the sieve.  Almost instantly I pinned and the boat folded around my right leg.   Instantly the crew jumped out for rescue, but there was little they could do as i was on the river right wall and there was no access.  After several very tense moments I scrambled free from the boat and climbed up the river right wall.   After exiting the boat it filled with water and was driven into the sieve.
Along Hike Out into Nothing

Let me first say,  it is very important to have a good crew, and in my opinion mine is one of the best.  We all have each other’s back and rescue from a situation was instant.   The peril of the situation hadn't fully hit me as we began desperately trying to retrieve the boat and gear.   Several multi point z drags were applied, but the boat wouldn’t budge.  Also several attempts were made to free the gear, but the folded  boat was driven so far under the water we were no match for it.   

After several hours in the frigid water trying to save my boat, I reached exhaustion.  I had to make a decision.  I realized I was holding up the group and really my only option was to bush whack through the wilderness and hopefully reach the car.   So one of the hardest, decisions I made in my life was to just lose everything.  The gear was clearly unrecoverable, so I left it, told the crew to continue downstream, and I'd see them at the car in day.   Everyone gave me what they could spare, and since we lost several hours in rescue mode I suggested a place for them to camp and said I'd try to meet them there.

Wyoming

After several hours of hiking I found their camp, and preceded to have one of the most miserable nights of my life. Laying on the cold granite in the middle of the Wyoming wilderness, I knew the next day was going to be one of the hardest days of my life if I was going to reach the car.    As the sun rose and warmed my body I finally fell asleep , and rested for about an hour.    Then with three liters of water I set off into the white space.   

Walking alone in the wilderness, allows a man allot of time to think.   As I walked along I made slow progress, I wrestled with what had happened, thought wat could I have done better and prevented it.  But in the end accidents just happen, and sometimes there is nothing you can do.    This was the first time I had ever had to  tuck tail and leave the river without paddling to the hike out.  And every day I think about this day,    As I walked to the car the terrain was horrible. I spent much of the day climbing, crawling, and crossing the rivers.   After almost 12 hours of bush waking I saw the car and my crew in the distance.  

That Road Leads to Redemption

After shuttle was run, dinner was had, discussions were made for our plans.  Everyone was pretty shaken up.  Dalton had to return home for work, but Chris, Mason, and I had another week left.   The Box was what we had came for but we were all pretty shaken by the NFLW and the reputation of The Box as one of the scariest runs in North America had us second guessing.    It was definitely an all or nothing trip.  Either we all 3 go to The Box or we go home.  Dalton offered me the use of his boat and gear so I had the opportunity to stay.   

 That night I got no sleep, as I laid in bed wrestling with the fact of the pin and evacuation on the NFLW and the sheer cliff walls of The Box. In the morning , I told the group I was staying.  I came out there for The Box, and I had no excuse to leave.   If I tuck tail and run because I am scared, I would regret it my entire life.  I would spend a year wondering if I could have done it, and always questioned myself as an expedition boater.   Sometimes the best way to confront your demons is to get immediately back up and tackle them head on.
The Box
Piolet Peak
Arriving in Cody we spent a few days boating with the locals on the Honeymoon, Day stretch, and Shoshone waiting for the level to drop.    Much thanks to the Hospitality of the Cody Crew!  

When the level finally came in we were prepared to drop into the box. Breezing through the Honeymoon section, Knocking out the Green Monster and Ankle Breaker portages  ,I realized this would be an epic trip.  The water was a high, esp for some southeast boys.  But we were know committed.  As the day went by we were committed to keeping a safe trip and moved methodically through one of the most beautiful places I had ever been.    We knocked out most of the classic rapids, balls to the wall being my favorite.  As we continued downstream we found a perfect campsite above Russ' Under World.




the Honeymoon
The Green Monster
Post Green Monster Paddle in
Perfection
The Calm Before the Storm

That night we enjoyed a clear perfect night and as the Full Moon passed over the crack in the earth Known as The Box, I realized I had made the right decision.   The next day we continued dwon stream through the picturesque  Calendar Falls, and several of the un-un's.   Riding high from good lines though Deliberation and Leap of faith,   we knocked out the last portage and enjoyed the beautiful paddle out to the car.
This is where it starts getting real. Ankle Breaker Portage
Stairing down the pipe
Chris McCoy


In the end, I wouldn't change the outcome of this trip for anything. Alot of people ask me why I subject myself to these adventures.   Why would I spend my vacation in the wilderness and not with a rum drink by the beach.   Sure there is no real point in the expeditions other than just the pure enjoyment of wild places and the love of kayaking.  But I have learned more from kayaking than I have from school, sports, and just about anything else.  With all that was lost in Wyoming tenfold was gained in experience and growth.  Can't wait until next summer and what is just over the next horizon!

Box Dwellers

The Box isn't for people with Comitment Issues
Mason Robinson!   Who the F**k is that?
The elusive McCoy

Mason Robinson Calendar Falls
More Box Dwellers
Mason Deliberating.  Should I stay or Should I go


Lower Deliberation just around the Corner
I think that was another Portage
Mason And Chris Below Leap of Faith! 
What We Came For

Almost Out
Mission Accomplished

Sunday, October 9, 2011

Linville Gorge

 Nate Rozell Babel Tower
For a long time the Linville Gorge has eluded me. Whether it was fear, the long drive, or just general laziness; I put off the pilgrimage to Linville for several years.  This year my number one winter goal was to reach Linville.  I had heard so much of the quality of the run, I almost avoided it because surly I would be disappointed. 


 Matt Wallace Boofing Babel Tower

So this fall we had returned from Wyoming (more to come on that), the air temps sstarted to cool, and I started to get that itch for creeking.   I was planning to meet up with Chris for some Ocoee action when just by chance I decided to check boating beta.  To my surprise Linviille was 5 ft and rising, I was on a 7 off from work so I knew what I had to do.  I called Chris and we immediately made plans to meet early at the NOC. A few phone calls later Nate Rozell comitted and a Monday Fall Linville run was upon us.
 S turn Rapid

4:30 am comes early, but for Linville I was up and at em.  2 hours later we were at the NOC and loaded up and headed on our way.   We had perfect fall weather upon arrival. Not too hot Not too cold. Nedless to say we were excited.  After a short hike down to Babel My blood was pumping and I was ready to go. 
 Chris McCoy Cave Falls
After 3 perfect lines at Babel we started down stream.  I was amazed at the number and quality of rapids in Linville Gorge. Many dangers, but this run is well worth the risk for a seasoned Class V paddler.   This river definitely lived up to its reputation, both in danger and quality.   

 Chris McCoy  Cathedral Falls

I will be back to Linville many more times. I plan to make this pilgrimage a few times a year.  This is THE training run for expedition boating in the South East.   And yes North Carolina finally has a river that is worth leaving a 45 minute radius of Chattanooga for.   Sometimes things are definitely worth the wait, and Linville is proof of that.
Nate Rozell exits the Cathedral Gorge

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Where the Devil Don't Stay

Our real discoveries come from chaos, from going to the place that looks wrong and stupid and foolish. - Chuck Palahniuk.

Kayaking has never been some enlightening journey or path for me. It was always something I enjoyed doing. I never sought out greater meaning from the river or felt like I was communing with nature. I just had fun and pushed myself. Eight years have passed and I am still just as, if not more, passionate about doing it than when I started. When you introduce something that eventually consumes your being it always offers up change and discoveries.



Dalton Creech on The Creecher



Most of these changes and discoveries didn’t exactly come in the most controlled of situations. It isn’t the days that were easy or worked out rather ordinarily that I remember the most, but rather the days where most went array  and I stepped off into the unknown.
Matt Wallace almost looking like a real kayaker

Matt Wallace avoids the Hornets Nest

Dalton Creech Typical Dry Coon


Routine days on the river are always fun, but how memorable are they really?  I can almost always remember all my swims, pins, and crashes vividly, but I can barely remember the routine trips where all went well.  These are the times  where I learned to keep cool and to get  “back on the horse”.  Without these crashes, I would have never progressed into the boater and person I have become today.  These crashes and swims motivated me to become a better paddler. They pushed me to improve and to boat as much as possible, so one day I could achieve that which I thought was unattainable.  
Seive!

Matt Wallace attempts to go through the eye of a needle

To be honest, I can’t remember much about  my last trip down a familiar creek or river, but I can remember every detail about my first.  Likewise the same goes for first time I run a rapid I have previously been walking.  It something about taking that step into the unknown, that makes it memorable and exciting.  It is  trusting your abilities and rolling the dice, where one learns just where their limits are.  Stepping into the unknown and challenging a rapid or a river, inspires confidence in one’s ability; yet also has the ability to define the limits of which we feel we can safely play.
Dalton Creech sampling some Hair of the Dog

Don't put a Bridle on a Bull

Change or evolution is a slow process. It takes time.  I have seen many of my friends rapidly progress and become extraordinary boaters in the last few years that I have known them. Yet, I cannot see that same change  in myself. I still see myself as the same kid who was just stoked on kayaking the Pigeon and the Tellico Rivers.   I know the growth has taken place by the sheer number of rivers I have had the opportunity to run, that I never thought I would have the skill to paddle. Those runs that I once thought were for the “pros”  and “core” boaters are ever so slowly become more attainable.
Dalton Creech Bows Down

Ain't no place I'd rather be

Matt Wallace Trouble ahead, Trouble behind and you know that notion just crossed my mind


I never started kayaking for  a journey  to discover things about myself.  Yet I have seen more and learned more about myself from kayaking than anything else I have done in my life. Those small steps into what looks wrong, stupid, and foolish  that have allowed me to flourish and grow not only as a kayaker but as a person.   

Dalton Creech 96 for 96,  incredible!
 

All Photos by Bett Adams and Kirk Eddlemon