"I rode myself into the ground But hell, it's almost over now I don't see nothing but the light"

-Ben Nichols-

Laying exhausted on the bank we watched the last remnants of twilight fade to black. Sipping our water we were slowly regaining  our conciseness to the real world.   We had put on Pocket Creek with three other boaters making a group of five.  The water was high and the sun was quickly fading to the west. (what little sun there was  on a cloudy, stormy day) There was no time for mistakes, after a swim by one the members of our group it was determined we should start hiking out back to the car.We were only 3 rapids in and we had less than an hour of daylight left.  This decision of hiking out was unacceptable to me. I knew we could make it to the bottom, especially if the group dwindled down to me and Chris; I also knew that hike back to the car was going to be hell. So with little daylight left, Chris and I  hopped in our boats and began our fast paced, high water decent of the gorge.

After the first rapid as a duo we realized the seriousness of our undertaking.  The water was high, the rapids were steep, and there was no margin for error.  I had paddled this run several times, but it was only Chris' second trip.  So it was determined we had no time for scouts, Chris would just follow closely behind me and I would shout directions and hope he heard them.    As we paddled down the creek at race pace, we knew we had one rapid we had to walk.  We quickly found a rhythm and fell into "the zone."  Racing to the portage rapid my arms felt like rubber and my lungs burned.   I was paddling as fast as I possibly could just reacting to the water and the rapids.   There was no thought or decisions; it was flow.  The river became a blur.   Catching the last eddy above the portage, we had maybe five minutes of  daylight and two large rapids left. As we scrambled around the rapid I could tell we were both spent.  We were falling and gasping for air as we portaged.   I just kept saying to Chris, "ONLY TWO MORE!"    It was total tunnel vision for us.  I had pushed my body and mind to the limit, and I knew it had to go a little farther.  We were almost there, we could see the light at the end of the tunnel. 

We quickly climbed back into our boats and slipped on our spray skirts.  We could barely muster the power to peal out from the eddy, how were we going to muster the energy to run the final two V+ rapids.   As I started down stream everything seemed to go from a blur to slow motion.  I could see each individual ripple and wave as I descended the final two rapids.  After successfully descending the final two rapids, we quickly paddled the run out to the trail.

As we sipped our water at the take out we slowly realized what we had done.   We had run a river that usually took about two hours to run in forty-five minutes.  It was high water, hard rapids, and we were pushing the brink of disaster.  We had gone way outside our comfort zones and pushed ourselves to the limits of our paddling abilities. Not since the Middle Kings had I pushed myself to my limits like that.  It felt really good.  Every once in a while I think you need this. Maxing out your ability, stress level, and mental focus; not only allows you to see your actual limits, but it allows you to see the strength you really possess.  Only in pushing yourself to the brink of failure can you get a glimpse of your potential.

Not all Kings Reside In Castles

The Middle Fork of the Kings Expedition has been called the river trip of a lifetime. I find this to be a vast understatement. For myself MFK Expedition was the trip of five life times. Never in my life have I found a river that makes you question what you are made of and forces you to grow on a daily basis, this place does. Every day you run the full gambit of emotions, you are maxed out both mentally and physically, and filled with a since of peace and accomplishment every night; left only to repeat the process again tomorrow. MFK is not the river of tomorrow, it is the river of right now. It requires your total focus and commitment at every moment. Looked at as a whole the expedition is daunting and pushing the realm of possibility, the only way to survive is to give it your all one step at a time on the hike and one stroke at a time one the river.

I can’t tell you what the river is like. Nobody can. All I can say no amount of preparation can fully prepare you for this task. No amount of video, pictures (esp the blurry photos you will find here), write ups will let you know what you are in store for. All I can do is tell you how it was for me.

The most important thing to bring to MFK is your crew. This is not the place to be cavalier or be the man. You must rely wholly on team work. At some point the river is going to give you all you can handle and break you, and your going have to rely on your friends to pull you through. And at some point you are going to have to do the same for them. Thankfully we had that.

Arriving at the South Lake Trail Head you have no idea of the pain you are about to be in as you hike the 13+ miles over a 12000 ft pass into Leconte Canyon with a 100lb Kayak on your back. Waking before dawn we quickly ate breakfast and hit the trail. Both myself and Chris had trained extremely hard for the hike. We thought we should be at the river in 6 to 7 hours. Little did we know 11 hours later we would still be hiking making it to camp right before dark, only to have Mason arrive roughly an hour later. Both mentally and physically spent, I crashed electing to skip dinner to get some much needed rest.

The Crew: Mason Robinson, Chris McCoy, and Matt Wallace before the Hike


Trail early on if it weren't for the beauty of the area the Hike would be unbearable



Chris Making his way up the Pass

Break Before Bishop Pass

Chris and Mason having Lunch at 12000ft


Waking late in the morning after most of the backpackers had left we took our time eating a hearty breakfast and loading our boats. Soon we were joined by Ranger Susie who went over a few back country rules and offered her words of encouragement. The river started off a little low and manky, but that was just perfect for a couple of southern boys. We paddled several miles and ate lunch above a large slide. Little did we know this slide would pale in comparison with what was to come. After lunch we paddled many of the signature drops. Fully in the moment and enjoying the river we seldom stopped to document our run. (This would become a recurring theme) Paddling until we could paddle no more we stopped for camp above one of the steepest gorges and set of drops on the river. Around a roaring fire we recounted our day enjoying our own company and reveling in the solitude the MFK provides to all who pass through her.

The Brink: Probably the Hardest part of the Hike. Less than 2 miles as the crow flys from the river, but you got a long way to drop.

Preparing to actually put on at Camp 1.

Chris Boofing the 1st significant rapid

Mason on Granite

Early Portage

Chris McCoy Money Drop

Matt Wallace finishing the Money Drop

View From Camp 2

The next day started out stout. The first gorge and rapid set was one of the hardest I had ever ran and lead directly into the largest run able slide I had ever seen. Watching Chris grease a few good lines inspired confidence as we rolled into the huge slide. After a quick scout me and Mason decided to give her. All I can say is the few seconds I was on that slide I have never felt so in control while being so out of control. Once again fully in the moment we took only memories. After a short boogie section we found ourselves at the waterfall gorge. With a quick scout Mason and Chris were feeling a bit drained after the stacked section we had just ran. Being both physically and mentally drained they elected to shoulder their boats around the committing gorge and its stout holes. I had dreamed of being in this place for some time. I had ran this gorge in my mind a thousand times punching the stout holes and plunging off the exit falls. Not having my boys in the water with me scared me. I have been boating with Chris for as long as I can remember. He knew I wanted this. As he lifted his boat and began walking to the trail he said, “ You got it.” Immersing myself fully in the moment, I slipped into the water and committed to soloing the waterfall gorge knowing the two guys above me on the trail had my back. After the portage around the Raw Dog Gorge, we ate lunch. We then set out running several good rapids until Simpson Meadows. On this day we covered the most amount of miles and had probably paddled the hardest sections of whitewater any of us had ever run in our life. Finding a perfect camp spot overlooking a nice little gorge we built a fire and enjoyed our diner while being serenaded by the sweet song of the river.

Mason Exiting one Stacked Section

Mason and Chris Taking abreak below the best Slides we ran

Matt Wallace Feeling Small entering in the Water Fall Gorge

Water Fall Gorge those holes are Sticky



Day three on the river was the biggest surprise. Not really knowing what to expect, I vastly underestimated this section. Not the quality of day 2, but let me say these rapids were stout. After a few hours of mad bombing we came to a definite horizon line. With a quick scout we realized we were at the Big Bad Beaver. We all gladly shouldered our boats around it and then enjoyed a nice lunch. After several more miles we reached Tehipte Valley. We decided to push as far as we could stopping right above the Bottom Nine. Being fully exhausted and a little fearful for what was to come we made camp, and everything was a little quieter this night.

Day 3 on the River Mason in Boogie

The Big Bad Beaver

After a large breakfast we entered the river all a little nervous at what lie ahead. The Bottom Nine is everything it was cracked up to be and more. It was relentless, both the rapids and portages were HARD. If you weren’t boofing large holes and catching crux eddies you were crawling through poison oak and falling over boulders. The bottom nine broke us. We started the day thinking we would easily make it through these nine miles to the confluence, but with the unrelenting nature of this section doubt crept in. I was tired and broken, mentally and physically exhausted with nothing left. I looked at Mason and Chris and could see they were defeated too. I knew we had to finish, not because we were out of food or needed off, we had something we had to prove to ourselves. I thought of the times Chris kept me going on the hike and the times Mason pushed on when he was tired. I knew this was my time to carry us through. So I commenced to bombing down boat scouting what I could and hopping out as quickly as I could to scout what I couldn’t see. I knew they would follow me so I just kept going only stopping long enough to make sure they made it through the rapid. As I watch the ridge line on the left slowly descend I knew we were getting close. Leaving it all on the river, I gave it all I had in the hopes that after this last bend we would reach the confluence. I was right. Never in my life had I been so proud. We had done it Middle Kings in 5 days. After some celebration we shouldered our boats up to Yucca Point where Chas was waiting with the truck.

Tehpite Dome

Mason Seal Launching in the Bottom 9

Chris McCoy Bottom 9

You're Never alone on the MFK: A bear looking on in the Bottom 9
The Confluence

Fully beat down and beaming with pride of what we had accomplished, I couldn’t help but feel a little sadness. It was over. The solitude was gone, no more moments only memories. It was back to the real world, work, cell phones, and everyday life. Every day I relive this trip in my mind, constantly daydreaming of what we did. Vividly remembering what we saw and the rapids we ran better than any blurry photo could ever tell. Just waiting for the next time we can fully immerse ourselves on a river.

I can tell you running the Middle Kings won’t make you a bad ass, cool, or the next big thing; but it will force you to grow. It will make you reach down deep and do things you never thought you could. It forges friendships that are thicker than water. You walk away with a new appreciation for truly wild places. You will work harder than you ever have and be given memories that will last longer than a life time. After the poison oak fades, the blisters heals, and the stiffness is gone; you’ll think about doing it again. Knowing deep down you definitely will do it again.

IT IS HARD. Don't do it just cause you can run cherry. Do it because you love adventure, and being out there. Most rivers are more fun, this one is not fun...it is everything more serious.

-Jake Stoesz-

Funny the way it is. When all is risked for that moment, that moment which will become a memory forever ingrained in your mind whether for better or for worse. It’s when everything is telling you to back out, because this will not end well. The odds are stacked against you, but IF it does go well the reward is unimaginable. Hell we all know “the next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing”. So you go all in and go for it.

Ben Davis Boofing Big In Colorado

Three years ago I met a wild eyed eighteen year old with the passion for whitewater that I had, his name was Ben Davis. After several trips boating together we became the best of friends. Traveling across the US and even internationally wrangling rivers. We pushed each other on the rivers and our skills flourished. The summer of 2008 Ben suffered a shoulder injury on Oh Be Joyful in Colorado. His summer was cut short. That fall he re injured his right shoulder training for the Green Race which resulted in surgery. Early the next summer Ben was back. We were back boating, but Ben then headed out to California on a trip of a lifetime and I had unfinished business in Colorado. The summer passed and we both returned to Chattanooga, boating the typical fall runs of the Southeast. Nearly a year to the day of Ben’s last shoulder injury we were back at the Green River again training for the Green Race. Little did we know the same rapid would, would injure Ben’s left shoulder and break several bones resulting in another surgery. We had gone from boating nearly every day as a team to boating together only a handful of times in two years.

Ben Post Surgery

Spring 2010, Ben was ready to paddle again. Ben was focused on school , and I was focused on exploring the lesser known runs of Walden’s Ridge. We were boating, but no longer on the same page we were once on. Ben dropped by the apartment one afternoon, beers were drank , and we reminisced about the times we had on the Raven Fork. Just so happened a few days later rain fell, and the Raven Fork was running. I shot Ben a text, and he was game. He said he’d meet me at 10 the next morning after his Special Forces test. As usual things went over and it was nearly noon when we left Chattanooga. Two stops later we were pushing making it to the Raven Fork By five in the afternoon.

The Author In Colorado






Ben California Dreaming




The mood was heavy. Ben hadn’t been to the Raven Fork in over a year, and he hadn’t paddled anything of that difficulty since his surgery. We decided to run by the take out first hoping to get a shuttle. Like always when you are pressed for time nobody was there. So we went to the put in and started hiking. It was now six and we had less than two hours to hike in and run one of the hardest sections of whitewater in the southeast. When we reached the river we had an optimal flow and a beautiful afternoon, but we both knew we could afford no mistakes. I remember looking at Ben and saying this had the potential to be one of the best or worst trips of our lives. As I went into the first rapids, I was stopped in a hole. The hole beat me down but I was determined not to swim. After several tense seconds maybe even a minute, I fought my way out and finished the rapid riding switch. Ben decided to walk. Contrary to what one would think the beat down lightened the mood. We were determined to keep a safe trip so we took our time and picked our way down the river. We finally reached the portage section and were above the largest rapid on the river. We had 45 minutes of daylight left 3 big rapids and one portage left. Portaging the first of the three rapid was not going to happen due to time restraints. After watching me run it on my head, I could tell Ben was nervous. I patiently waited in the pool below as I watched him saddle up and take the ride. Two rapids were left. We snuck the next rapid to stay safe and got out to scout the last major rapid. Ben was debating portaging, but after my line he decided to run it. Next thing I knew, he was flying off the last drop and we were both laughing. We quickly made the last portage and enjoyed the paddle out in a perfect spring sunset deep in the Appalachian Mountains. We made it to the take out and jogged the two miles to the truck where we watched the last rays of sunlight fade away.






The Author Boofing Caveman in the Raven Fork Gorge

The Author in Mike Tyson Punchout

Ben Davis in Mike Tyson Punchout


We both knew a simple mistake could result in one of the most epic and miserable nights of our lives, but we knew if it went well we’d be sipping ice cold brews after a perfect day on the river. Of all the trips and days spent on the river this is definitely one of my most memorable. Not for difficulty of the rapids or beauty of the gorge, but for unspoken trust that was shared between two best friends who risked it all for the simplest of rewards .

What do you do with Good Ole' boys like them?

Get your scare on!

All Photos By

Kirk Eddlemon / CC BY-NC-ND 3.0

The Winter and Spring have been wonderful in the south east. Rain has been plentiful and the rivers have been flowing. The harvest of new discoveries have been ripe for the taking this season, yielding some of the best runs I have ever had the pleasure to kayak. The lack of posting these recent months has been a point of conflict do I share these new wonderful places with others or do I horde them all for myself. None of these places are really that hard to find it just takes a little digging and a step away from routine. We all are creatures of habit by nature. So many times runs get hyped and become the “cool place” to go. Crowds then flock to the run detracting from the solitude and beauty of these gorges and sometimes even threaten access. I like the seclusion of being in a remote place either alone or with my closet friends running a river. Long shuttles, flat water, tough portages, hiking in/ out all appeal to me. They provide a buffer keeping the crowds away. I have already seen one gem fall to the wayside of becoming over exposed and crowded, and fear it will soon happen to another. For this reason I keep my knowledge too myself and those closest of paddling friends. But every now and then you find a run that can protect itself. Big Soddy is that run.

Big Soddy Creek is by far the scariest thing I have paddled. It is also the best run on the ridge for a class V+ boater. This run has been on my radar for quite some time. After talking with several of the older and established boaters in the Chattanooga area, I got an overwhelming response of, “ It’s Dangerous and I don’t like. I won’t go back.” I only talked to a few boaters that really LIKED the run. Being I hold them in high esteem, I knew this was going to be a good run.

Seldom do runs live up to the danger hype given to them, Soddy does! When Mark said, ”Think Fist on Russell Fork.” He wasn’t lying, Fist would make some of these rapids look clean. This is not a place to test your limits or to prove yourself. Even the easy rapids have Class V+ consequences. Boat scouting is not advised for this run. This is a run where you take a solid crew and you watch your friends back. Ropes should set precedent over cameras here.

That being said, for all the danger there are rewards. For those boaters looking for complex boulder garden rapids in a pristine gorge, you will be pleasantly surprised. You are likely to see nobody else other than your group. For all the danger and intimidation of the rapids they flow together incredibly well. The highlight of the run is definitely Skywalker. This is a three part rapid, this is definitely the most rewarding and most consequential rapid on the run. There are no big drops on this run , there is only one slide; this is a boulder garden run. Everything is 100% runable, but this doesn’t mean everything has to be run to have a good day.

High water would be a nightmare in there so, when you are at the takeout be wise. There is no gauge there right now so use discretion or go with somebody who has been. They’ll know if it is good to go.

In my opinion this is one of the three the best run in the Chattanooga area (the other two aren’t Bear and Hendy). The gorge is beautiful, the water quality is good, and the rapids are phenomenal. This being from someone who enjoys mank. For a boater who is able to block out the dangers, stick the lines, and isn’t too prideful to walk if things aren’t going great Big Soddy will offer up a rewards. If you don’t like scouting, sieves/ undercuts, and technical whitewater, this probably isn’t the place for you.

I doubt this run will ever become popular, due to the extreme danger . When it comes to Big Soddy it’s not if but when. BE CAREFUL, SCOUT, SET SAFETY!

Rio Grande en Patagonia

All Photos by Arnold

View of the Tres Monjas (three nuns)

This winter I had the opportunity to fulfill a dream of mine since I started kayaking. I traveled with a group of friends to Chile for a trip of a lifetime. The highlight of the trip was the Futaleufu River. Getting to the Futa was a long and involved process it involved 2 buses, an overnight ferry, and quite possibly the most unique "shuttle" ever. It was totally worth it though. Set among the beautiful scenery of Patagonia with the delicious asados, great friends, and world class kayaking; the days spent at the Futa were some of the best days of my life. This is a place that I hope to return to again and again. They say "a picture is worth a thousand words" so here you go!



Putting in on the Rio Azul for a little warm up before we reach the "Big River"

Futa Scenery

Alex Zendall and Logan James "Asleep at the Wheel"

Sean Cash and Matt Wallace Crash and Burn

Matt Wallace "Asleep at the Wheel"

Sean Cash Cruising

Matt Wallace typical Futa Rapids

Sarah, Logan, and others Cruising

Carlos and Jason in some Wave trains

Logan James at Pillow

Matt Wallace on the Futa

Breathtaking

Jason Charging Mundaka

Logan James Full Steam Ahead

Matt Wallace

Not the preferred method for running Conswella

Uh Oh!

The Crew Surfing at a play hole

Cruising to the Take out

The Take Out

Man there are alot of Snap Dragon Skirts.

Way to ruin the picture and take yours off Matt!